After the amazing canal transit, we left behind the hustle of the big city as soon as possible to spend some relaxing time in Las Perlas islands. We had been told that the water on the Pacific side was colder than the Caribbean but there is more fish and less sargasso seaweed. This proved immediately right, as on the way we caught a Mahi-mahi and in the anchorage were surrounded by thousands of fishes.
Las Perlas is another of the marvelous archipelagos of Panama but very different from San Blas or Bocas del Toro. Here there is no indigenous population with most islands being deserted, so it is the perfect setting for filming reality shows, like Survivor. We walked in an island into the preparations for such a show, just in time before it would be closed for visitors.
I wonder what kind of torture the contestants must endure to go on to the next episode…
There are some holiday resorts on the islands and we found one which allowed cruisers to make use of their facilities for a small contribution, so we enjoyed enormously soaking in a fresh water pool for a change, with spectacular views featuring Sunriser as the only boat in the bay.
The Pacific Ocean creates a considerable swell on the shore, with some great surf spots, but it makes it difficult for us to land on the beach reasonably dry. We have resorted to the use of the paddle board to come on land on deserted black beaches enclosed by the jungle, feeling a bit like like discovering Jurassic Park.
Naranjo Bay
Santa Catalina island
After some days of complete solitude we sought again some human company in Bahía Honda (deep bay) and dropped anchor in front of the houses of two families, known among cruisers for their warm hospitality. The bay itself is spectacular, very deep indeed and bordered by lush jungle displaying all shades of green in the evening sun. At sunset and sunrise we were treated to a concert by the howler monkeys, and Edwin, who lives there, took us through the mangroves to see them. We visited Edwin and Rosalind in their home and the following day the whole family came to feast aboard Sunriser on the yellow fin tuna caught by their son.
Our last stop before leaving Panama was Boca Chica. Here, the authorities drive one and a half hour from the closest city of David to facilitate the checking out procedure of the boats. The officers remarked that we had completely exhausted our allowed stay of 3 months to the very last day. We told them that, indeed, we had enjoyed our stay so much that we didn’t want to waste a single day. From the natural beauty of the jungle and the islands, to the technical and organizational wonder of the canal and the kindness and friendship of everyone we met… Thank you Panama!
