Sunriser

Surinam obtained its independence only in 1975. We did not know much about its history after independence and even less of the earlier period. After 3 weeks we have scratched the surface of this intriguing country and learned a lot of its people and dramatic history, where three continents have come together.

We started with sailing up de Surinam River, where we exchanged, after 2 weeks at sea, the sound of water for the sound of howling monkeys.

To get an idea of the location of the only harbour of Surinam (with place for 12 boats) we made a droneshot.

Surinam was inhabited by the indiginous indians. They still live in the far south.

AFRICA

Between the 17th and the 18th century the colonists brought tens of thousands of African slaves to work in the plantations under extreme harsh conditions. Many of them escaped to the jungle where they managed to survive with the help of the indigenous people. Their descendants, called Marrons (from the Spanish cimarron meaning runaway cattle…) now populate numerous villages in the districts of Saramacca and Brokopondo, where they maintain the customs and way of life of their African ancestors. We visited the area with Maurice and the crews of Happinez, Britt and Tiki Mas during a three day trip up the Saramacca river. After 3 hours driving the road ends and you can continue only by boat. Our local guide Cho took us to the village where he grew up where we met his grand mother and enjoyed a meal prepared by his aunt. Walking through the jungle from village to village we learned about the plants and how to survive in the jungle. It was an intense trip full of excitement and learning moments.

ASIA

Upon the abolition of slavery in 1863, the Dutch government replaced the slaves by contract workers from India, Java and China. Many of them stayed after fulfilling their contracts and their descendants now populate the more urban parts of Surinam.

We encountered a Hindustan area in a trip to the district of Nickerie, including Hindu temples and a wonderful market with all kinds of oriental products. We tried the local Asian inspired cuisine and experimented ourselves with new to us vegetables and fruits.

Unfortunately the biggest attraction of this region, Bigi Pan, a big brakkish lake, was dry already for months because of the lack of rain. But some birds like the red ibis were still around.

The first Javanese people arrived in 1890 at the sugarplantagion in Marienburg. A descendant who had worked there as a young boy guided us around the remains of the sugar and rum factory that closed in the 80’s of last century.

EUROPE

Though not many people of European descent still leave in Surinam, the mark left by the British, French, Portugese Jews and, specially, Dutch colonists can be found in the architecture of the capital, Paramaribo, the remains of Fort Zelandia, Fort Amsterdam, and the plantations along the rivers. Also, the official language is Dutch, which made it very easy for us to communicate.

The Portuguese Jews, escaping the catholic repression, lived on the settlement in the jungle of Joden savanne. The graveyard and the remains of the Synagoge, build with Dutch bricks (which served as ballast in the ships on the way to Surinam) are still standing.

We explored the European heritage in Paramaribo and some of the plantations in a trip with Britt up the Kommewijne river, stopping at Fort Amsterdam, the coffee plantation Katwijk, the village of Alliance and the plantation museum of Bakkie.

SURINAM

As a country, Surinam is a melting pot of various cultures and ethnic groups sharing the tragic histories of slavery, emigration and forced labour. This circumstances have already  brought great conflict in the short country’s history. We can only hope that the Surinamers can find common pride and unity in the overwhelming beauty and richness of the natural resources of their country.