Sunriser

The Dutch have a tradition of sailing which we have seen confirmed in the past weeks. In the northern Spanish region of Galicia, European sailors gather in what is known as Costa de La Muerte (coast of death), waiting for favorable weather conditions to head south; and so do we. A large proportion, indeed, consists of Dutch boats and Dutch sailors.

Sailing in this area at this time of the year is not to be taken lightly. Depressions follow closely one another and we consult carefully the forecasts of winds and waves. Unfortunately, this autumn the winds are consistently from the South and Southwest, exactly the direction we, and almost everyone else, are going. 

Our first port of call in the Rías Altas of Galicia has been Ribadeo, followed by Viveiro. While detained in harbours by weather we regularly rent a car, make long walks, and meet with other sailors to share strategies, experiences and a ‘gezellig’ drink; and, of course, enjoy exploring the towns and their surroundings.

The beaches are particularly beautiful; very long empty stretches of untouched sand and shells become visible at low water and we often have the whole beach for ourselves. The most famous beach in the area is Playa de las Catedrales with big rocks scattered over the beach, but our favorite is Playa de Arealonga as it was a full bay of pristine beach with no people around.

The 28th of October we finally decided to attempt the jump to La Coruña and leave the mar Cantábrico. The trip was uneventful, mostly under engine, and so we rounded Cape Estaca de Bares, the most northern point of Spain and entered the Atlantic Ocean. 

La Coruña received us decorated  for Halloween and with appropriately spooky weather: the first night a storm with gusts up to 50 knots! But what a beautiful city this is (if it doesn’t rain).

In La Coruña we have met again other Flying Dutchmen and women (and various other nationalities) and shared their interesting stories and dreams; some of them left before us but we’ll no doubt meet again in the way.

We are now waiting for a weather window to round cape Finisterre.

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